对于纪录片和烹饪书作者冯迪亚兹来说,这些烟熏炖豆子捕捉了她波多黎各童年的所有味道,以及她一生在厨房的探索。

ByVon Diaz
February 19, 2021
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小时候,我讨厌米饭和豆子。这对我的父母来说压力太大了,因为在我出生的波多黎各,大米和豆类是宗教。早餐、午餐、晚餐-188bet博彩arroz con habichuelas或者米饭和豆类是每一个吃饭。

最后,经过反复试验,我年轻的父母发现我其实并不讨厌大米和豆类,问题是它们的比例。我想要相反的结果lo típicoor what was expected—I wanted abowl of beans, with a scoop of rice on it, because rice bored me, but beans I loved.

My family typically cooked intensely flavorful red kidney beans, seasoned withsofrito, sazón,and tomato sauce, with added chopped potatoes and whole green pimento-stuffed olives. It's a powerful combination, one that turns a simple bowl of beans into a full meal—crucial for communities making do with limited resources.

I started making beans for my family as a teenager. There was a time when starting the dinner beans was my after-school chore; ideally they'd be simmering on the stove when my dad got home from work. And I prepared them as the women in my life—my grandmother, mother, and stepmother—instructed me to. I stuck to the script, because, again, beans are religion.

And yet, I'm a consummate wanderer, due in large part to being a military kid, and over time I experienced different kinds of beans that made me wonder if the version I grew up cooking really was the best. Like much of Puerto Rican cuisine, the recipe I was most accustomed to seemed rooted in outdated tradition and shelf-stable ingredients that grew out of economic necessity and their capacity to withstand hurricanes.

索弗里托豆食谱
Credit: Anna Stockwell

But when my family was stationed in Europe, I discovered托斯卡纳式白豆, prepared simply with an Italian soffritto—so similar in concept to a Puerto Rican sofrito—along with fresh herbs, white wine, and chicken broth. Later, as a young, hippy college student (suddenly turned vegetarian), I discovered lentils, notably red lentils cooked down with coconut milk into a velvety dal. Mexican frijoles charros,or cowboy beans, cooked with bacon and broth, caught my attention. Southern-style lima beans, sometimes cooked with bits of ham and cream, are succulent and elegant—a shift from the subsistence preparation I grew up with. And then Cuban black beans, inky, laced with oregano and often brightened with red-wine vinegar, shifted my perspective once again.

当我开始烹饪豆科植物时,我想方设法强调每种豆子的独特风味,并将其固有的奶油味表现出来。随着时间的推移,我从其他文化中借鉴simplified my family's recipe. Tomato sauce was the first to go, then olives, then potatoes. Eventually I landed on these Tuscan-Mexican-Southern inspired sofrito-laced beans that are so much simpler, but no less satisfying—and delicious served with类似蔬菜.

These days, I prepare my version of beans with sofrito in a cast-iron skillet over a woodfire grill in my backyard in Durham, North Carolina—a long way from the nonstick pots and electric stoves in the kitchens of my youth. The secret to this recipe is complexity couched in simplicity. The bacon fat accentuates the beans' creaminess, sofrito adds dynamism, and the brothstock gives it balance. And because sofrito is the cornerstone of Puerto Rican flavor, they still transport me to my earliest memories of loving beans.

Get the Recipe: Smoky Simmered Beans with Sofrito